Round We Go » Oceania / South Pacific

Camp Fiji

C. Ryan — Tue, 17 Jan 2012 03:52:59 +0000

Fiji. The name itself conjures up visions of crystal clear waters, white, sandy beaches and stunning coral reefs. So, are the glossy advertisements and desktop backgrounds to believed? Could Fiji possibly be this beautiful? In a word, yes. Fiji lives up to the hype and is every bit as beautiful as it is made out to be. Honeymooners and tourists looking for their own version of paradise cannot be faulted for dropping thousands of dollars to call this place home for a week or two. Which begs the question – can all this goodness be experienced by the budget traveler? If you don’t mind your fun packaged summer camp-style, then your answer is yes.

Fiji is not an island, like I had always imagined. Rather, it is an archipelago of 333 islands that vary greatly. First, in size: many are but a blip on a map, capable of being circumnavigated in minutes. Others, like the mainland, Viti Levu, are quite large and require several days to tour around; Second, in landscape: there are volcanic islands, full of dry, scrub brush and rocky beaches, and others still with dense jungles enveloped by pristine, white beaches and a veil of mint green water; Third, and most notably, in cost: island resorts run the gamut from Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous (with one island resort going for a cool $70,000 USD a night) to all-inclusive backpacker hostels on the high-end of cheap.

Travelers typically choose to concentrate their time on one of the two main chains of islands – the Mamanucas closer to the main island or the Yasawas further north. Prices to both islands proved to be quite expensive due to a monopoly on the ferry trade, with the trip to the Yasawas double in cost. We quickly learned that the bartering methods we had mastered in Brazil and Argentina were a foreign concept to the Fijians. In the end, we decided that Mama knows best. We opted for the closer Mamanuca group of islands and set sail for our soon-to-be home, the $30 dorm bunk beds of Ratu Kini Backpackers Hostel on the island of Mana.

Like almost all of the island resorts, the cost was inclusive of a compulsory meal plan. Typically, I enjoy eating as a way of experiencing a culture, so I was a bit dismayed to learn that my restaurant and meal would be chosen for me. However, after arriving to Ratu Kini on the island of Mana, it became apparent very quickly why this is the case. All of the islands are very small, and still very well preserved. A slew of bars and restaurants on each island would only deteriorate the condition of the islands rapidly and take away from the beauty – which, simply, is why everyone is there in the first place.

Each day was spent doing something that we could hardly imagine doing just last week when we were home in St. Louis for Christmas. Again, because the islands are very small and there are no outside establishments, the resorts and hostels come up with some very creative ways to keep guests entertained. Similar to camp, each night had a theme. The theme of our first night was “Fijian Fun” with a traditional kava ceremony and some very entertaining Fijian songs and dancing. The next night at Ratu Kini consisted of a ridiculous cross-dressing session that was taken way too seriously by way too many people. It quickly became Studio 54 on acid. After happy hour – consisting of “stubbies” or short, fat, apothecary-esque bottles of Fiji Bitter or Gold – we witnessed the head dive instructor dressed as a femme fatale in a dance-off with the other cross-dressed guests. His/her dance included some very lewd and hilarious moves that would make top-end strippers envious. It ended as all great things do, with his 2-year old daughter confused and crying in the audience, asking, “Daddy, what are you doing?!”

Days began with the gulping of Fiji water (yep – they actually do drink Fiji water in Fiji, and it’s not $15 a bottle like in Vegas) to ward off any hangover that could’ve existed from the previous night’s fun and a communal breakfast with the other campers. We went for hikes around the island, through jungle forests, snorkeled and hired a boat with several others for an island-hopping adventure to take advantage of Fiji‘s beautiful waters.

We ventured to Matamanoa where we pretended to be guests at the posh resort and then to Monuriki, where they filmed the movie “Castaway.” Our group was pleasantly surprised to find the “Tom Hanks island” empty, with the exception of two nudist couples. Fortunately, we arrived before the big touring groups and were able to hike to the top to the caves and check out the incredible views of the surrounding islands.

After two days, we were ready to leave behind the camp-style life and took the bait on a great deal the Walu Beach Resort was offering on the island of Malolo. With the Australian reality TV show “The Resort” cancelled, the literally made-for-TV resort is in limbo and was offering free upgrades for guest staying in dorms to beachfront bures. Bures are the traditional thatch-roofed huts with pitched roofs. It was a second honeymoon of sorts, with a deluxe bedroom, two bathrooms and a sitting room, all with ocean views.

We took advantage of the resort’s amenities, including an ocean-front pool, hammocks and sea kayaks to head out to a reef to snorkel. There, we saw yellow sting rays with bright blue polka dots, Nemo, zebra fish, electric blue starfish, a sea snake and, on my last day, a shark! It wasn’t huge – only about a foot and a half long – but it was so incredible to turn around and see a shark right in front of my eyes (not to worry, it wasn’t a Great White and was far less interested in me than I was in him).

Our last day we spent on the main island and had fun drowning stubbies of the local micro-brew, Vono, and hashing over camp-life with other travelers we had met along the way. While initially disappointed in the camp life that was Fiji for us budget travelers, we came to appreciate the forced fun. We were both quick to realize that we had met and formed friendships with more people in the five days we were on the islands than we had in the six weeks we were in Brazil, where we stayed in private rooms in pousadas. Budget travelers, do not fear. Take our advice, there is still a place yet for you in the wonderful isles of Fiji.

Cheers from Marlborough, NZ | Video

Round We Go — Sat, 03 Apr 2010 06:12:41 +0000

We made a visit to the Marlborough wine region, located in the northeast of the South Island of New Zealand. This area can lay claim to starting the modern New Zealand wine industry. Click below for details on our visit.

Routeburn Track, New Zealand | Video

C. Ryan — Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:29:29 +0000

Click below for details on the Routeburn Track on the South Island of New Zealand

Sydney Gay Mardi Gras | Photos

Round We Go — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:09:40 +0000

What began in the 1970′s in Sydney as a protest against persecution of sexual minorities, has become the world’s most colorful celebration for the gay and lesbian communities. On our last night in Australia, we witnessed the culmination of the Gay Mardi Gras festivities with its annual parade. Attracting more than 300,000 spectators and lasting a whopping four hours, the parade was a wild celebration and worth the international hype.

We waited hours for our front row seats and the Mardi Gras parade did not dissappoint. Featuring an array of exotic costumes and pulsating dance music, nine thousand people from all walks of life participated in the parade. Nearly 150 sparkling floats danced their way down Oxford Street to waving rainbow flags and loud cheers. Many of the floats portrayed this year’s theme ‘History of the World’ and even Osama Bin Laden made an appearance with a float depicting his coming out party!

Aside from the glam and glitz, the parade was also inspiring. There were floats marching for gay adoption and civil marriages and even a float dedicated to highschoolers against homophobia. What a colorful way to commemorate how far we’ve come and how far we have left to go.

Click below for photos from the Sydney Gay Mardi Gras parade.

Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

Australia| Photos

roundwego — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 11:34:31 +0000

Click on the photos for more details on our around the world trip

Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

A Sydney Side of Life

Laura — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 05:31:16 +0000

Stairs of the Sydney Opera House at Sunset

Our arrival to Sydney couldn’t have come any sooner. We certainly knew there was more to this vast country than Bris-Vegas and the coastal party town we’d seen, and our Aussie experience was just about to turnaround.

Instead of booking a flight to Sydney, we arrived on a 14-hour overnight bus ride from Byron Bay. With Ryan drooling on the seat beside me, I awoke to the sounds of car horns and the smoke-filled commuter air while crossing the great Harbor Bridge. A hundred feet below I saw the white butterfly wings of the magnificent Sydney Opera House, signifying to me we really had made it to the other side of the world.

Extended Stay

Victorian homes of Surry Hills

When planning our around the world trip, we imagined plotting out some lengthier stays along the way. Long-term travel often calls for the need to recharge your physical batteries, and the idea of planting our feet in a place for awhile has certainly been appealing. We didn’t, however, plan for this to happen so early in the game, nor in an expensive place like Australia. But as our nomadic lifestyle demands, we can‘t always call the shots. A delay in obtaining our travel visa for the next stop of our trip meant we were ‘stuck’ in Sydney to wait it out.

Sydney is certainly a fantastic place to be stuck! Perched on a stunning harbor, it’s a sophisticated city with a diverse population, thriving culinary scene and architectural excellence. Sydneysiders, as the city’s residents are called, are a chic and eclectic people with a strong pride in their city. They’re loyal as hell to their sports teams, their corner cafés and pubs and the sun and surf of their coastline. And for a nation at the end of the world – so geographicaly isolated – they seem to share an innate sense of adventure, to which I certainly relate.

The surf in Bondi Beach

The visa waiting game lasted a good 10 days so we set up shop and set out to live like the locals. We rented an apartment in the Potts Point neighborhood of the city, which turned out to be an ideal home base. Sitting atop a hill overlooking the Sydney Harbor, it’s a stylish neighborhood whose leafy streets are lined with outdoor cafes, trendy eateries and upscale delis and bakeries selling French and Italian delicacies.

Discovering Sydney
We enjoyed discovering the personality of each of Sydney‘s charming neighborhoods. It was a nice mix of taking in the hustle and bustle of city life and relaxing. Highlights for us will definitely be:

- Starting our days off right, highly-caffeinated on a strong flat white and proper ‘brekkie’
- Morning walks along Macquarie Point for views of the awe-inspiring Sydney Opera House and Harbor Bridge
- Perusing the bookstores of nearby Surry Hills and window-shopping at the Victorian homes-turned-boutiques of Paddington
- Experiencing the colorful Gay Mardi Gras celebrations (more to come on this!)
- Stumbling through Kings Cross, the gritty underbelly of the city where the good, the bad and the ugly congregate
- Exploring the scenic coastline surrounding Sydney and the famed Bondi Beach
- Uncovering Sydney’s past by walking around the cobblestone streets of The Rocks where the first settlers made their home
- Admiring the plethora of fashionistas on the streets who seem to try so hard to keep up their image
- Partaking in the lively outdoor food market scene
- Indulging daily in pastries at Sydney’s top-notch cafes

Views of Sydney Harbor from Macquarie Point

Sydney is a multi-faceted city with so many different layers. We felt like we were discovering a new side and view of the city each day we were there. It certainly has earned a spot on my list of world-class cities.

I found Sydney to be extremely livable and thoroughly enjoyed our stay. It’s comfortable, clean, green and easy to navigate. We can speak the language, drink the tap water, have hot showers and all the meals we enjoy back home. I am anxious, however, to get on the road again as this journey for me is more about facing the ups and downs and frustrations that come with immersing yourself in a completely foreign culture. It’s there, when faced with those daily challenges, that I find to be the most difficult yet the most rewarding.

Victory in Victoria: Great Ocean Road & Yarra Valley

Laura — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 06:09:49 +0000

Sunset on the Great Ocean Road

After a few days in Melbourne, we set out to explore the surrounding areas in the state of Victoria. Top on our list was a drive down the Great Ocean Road. This 100 mile stretch along the southern coast of Australia is said to offer some of the most spectacular coastal scenery imaginable. We set out to put it to the test.

The famous road begins just an hour outside of Melbourne from the surfing capital Torquay and runs west, hugging the coast along the Tasman Sea. We rented a car to spend a day making the drive and the views were spectacular. We passed Bells Beach, made famous in the 90’s movie “Point Break” and stopped by the Arie Inlet lighthouse to take in the views. We followed the mountainous roads as they snaked through the hillside past charming coastal towns. We walked through the nearby eucalyptus forests lined with koala bears and kept our eyes peeled (to no avail) for the many kangaroos said to be hopping around along the way.

View of the Twelve Apostles from the Great Ocean Road

The culmination of the journey, and highlight of our day, was a view of the rock formations known as the 12 Apostles. Here erosion on the towering cliffs created 12 giant rocks that jet out from the sea. We made it here in time for sunset and watching the sun light fall against the rocks as the waves crashed against them, was an incredible sight.

Next on our agenda was a visit to the Yarra Valley wine region. Known for its white wines and Pinot Noirs, we spent an afternoon sipping our way around the pastoral valley. We stopped at the cellar door of the Yering winery to taste their offerings and then made our way to Moet & Chandon. The famed, France champagne maker had set up shop in the Australian Yarra valley and didn’t leave home without it’s haughty, French charm. In true French fashion, the vineyard paid homage to fine wine and food, with a delectable French-inspired menu and elegant setting. We enjoyed a platter of charcuterie and washed it down with some champagne tastings.

Moet Chandon vineyards in the Yarra Valley

When it comes to beautiful wine regions, this place really doesn’t compete. It’s a bit brown and dry, and lacking a bit of the charm some of the other wine regions I’ve had a chance to explore. Nonetheless, the Yarra Valley makes a great day trip for those looking for an afternoon in the countryside outside of the hustle and bustle of Melbourne.

Scones and Jam | Australia

C. Ryan — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 14:20:47 +0000

Whipped cream in place of butter was the perfect compliment

Australia has been a place of small splurges for us. Needing some sustenance to fortify us for the stunning Great Ocean Road, we stopped along the Airey’s Inlet lighthouse at a traditional English cottage for scones and jam (yes and sadly, scones and jam is considered a splurge).

Great move by the shop owner on using lightly whipped cream in place of butter. With the homemade raspberry jam, the whipped cream was the perfect partner for the warm scones.

Once Again, Melbourne is Marvelous

C. Ryan — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 13:37:31 +0000

Melbourne's Yarra River cuts through the city skyline

Melbourne can empathize with Rodney Dangerfield. Once deemed “Marvelous Melbourne” in the gold-boom days of the 1840’s, it has since been relegated to Australia’s second city. It just can’t seem to “get any respect.” But silver in size is where the city’s runner-up status ends. With its sophisticated style, haute cuisine and cosmopolitan flair, it‘s hard to argue; world-class Melbourne has never been more marvelous.

We allowed ourselves 4 nights, 3 days in Melbourne which was simply not enough. With a population of 3.4 million Melbourne was much bigger and had more to offer than we expected. The city is divided by the Yarra River. Once a dirty eyesore running through the city center, it is now a Melbournian playground, where crew teams work the waterway and pedestrians stroll the esplanade that runs along the river.

The North
We used our first day to explore north of the river. To the north is the Central Business District (CBD) and, traditionally, the city’s working-class neighborhoods. The CBD proved a wonderful mix of past and future, with a combination of sleek new architecture contrasted with Victorian-era edifices. The rectangular CBD has the fortune to be buffered by gardens on all of its four sides, giving the city an open, airy feel. The city turns eastward, literally and figuratively, to the goldmine-era Chinatown, which is a vital part of the city’s dining and commercial scene.

Hustle and bustle of Melbourne's arcades

The best part of the city is its meandering arcades and “Little Streets.” Each East-West running street has a “little” street, or an alleyway-like offshoot of its parent. The best are Little Collins and Little Bourke. These are home to Melbourne’s ubiquitous cafes. Degraves St. is the center of the CBD’s café scene, where espresso flows like water and everyone dines alfresco. We followed Degraves St. to Flinders Way, an alley so tiny it could easily be missed were it “not to be missed.” If the CBD has an arty, hipster scene, it’s here. Bohemian coffee shop and funky restaurant workers hang out and smoke on colorful egg crates in the tightly-wound alley decorated with graffiti, giving you pause to wonder you’re not in some Oriental locale.

Victorian architecture of Melbourne

Northern Melbourne also lays claim to the hippest neighborhood, Fitzroy, where Brunswick St. offers a plethora of great restaurants, boutique shops and bookstores. We worked up an appetite wandering around neighboring Collingwood’s main drag, Smith St., not too unlike Brunswick St. but providing more off-beat entertainment. We explored the grounds of Melbourne University and Carlton’s gardens before window-shopping the gelato stands, bakeries and the Italian fare Lygon Street’s “Little Italy” had to offer. We circled back to Fitzroy where a decision on where to eat was almost impossible with all the temptations Fitzroy St. threw at us. Very unlike my carnivorous self, we ended up at a place called Vegie Bar. The place was packed for a Wednesday night and we had fun imbibing in Australia’s micro-brews in the garden outback before enjoying an incredible veggie pizza at one of the restaurant’s communal tables.

The South
Melbournians, proudly punching above their weight, will tell you that before Sydney’s 2000 came their ‘56 and their city is second to none. The south side of the city is a testament to Melbourne’s love of sport. Just south of the Yarra is the Melbourne Cricket Ground, or the “G” as locals call it, where the 1956 Summer Olympics were held. It’s still home to some fierce competition with MCG playing host numerous sporting events including the Australian Football League’s Aussie rule footbal Grand Final and the well-attended Boxing Day Test Match for the ever-popular cricket.

The Royal Botanic Gardens of Melbourne

As if Melbourne and Sydney needed more fuel for their fiery rivalry, the Royal Botanic Gardens near South Yarra are superior even to Sydney’s. We wandered around the gardens for hours and only saw a tenth of their foliage. We walked through dense rainforest to alpine surroundings in the course of a mile.

Melbourne’s more affluent half is to the south. There, we walked down Chapel St. and Toorak Rd, home to upscale boutiques, name-brand fashion outposts and trendy bars and restaurants. From there, we walked all the way to St. Kilda, the seedy-meets-upscale beach area of Melbourne. Acland St. is the center of the action and we enjoyed an Aussie favorite – fish ‘n chips – while watching everyone pre-game before hitting up the dance clubs. The beach itself is a far cry from Australia’s finest but is a great repose for anyone looking to get out of the city.

Melbourne never really stopped being the wonderful metropolis that it is today; it’s not marvelous once again. Some people just need a little reminding. For those, once again, Melbourne is marvelous.

Curry Pie | Australia

C. Ryan — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 21:57:29 +0000

Whole lot of goodness right here

Harry’s Café de Wheels is a Sydney institution and has been serving up tasty meat pies since 1945. It’s open for business 18 hours a day and brings in Sydneysiders from all walks of life. From construction workers and Navy midshipmen to socialites and celebs like Russell Crowe, everyone leaves full and happy.

The café became mobile and added the “de Wheels” when a strange Sydney law mandated that food carts move at least 12 inches every day. Law-abiding Harry’s would move one foot to the right one day and a foot back to the left the next. It has been positioned (more or less) at Woollomoloo wharf ever since it opened.

While the neighborhood has changed – once a thriving Naval port left for dead and set for demolition and now the home to tactfully-renovated condos, restaurants and an upscale hotel – Harry’s has not.

The café’s staple is the Tiger pie, named after its original owner, Harry “Tiger” —-. The Tiger pie is stuffed full of beef, mashed peas, mashed potatoes and lots of gravy. The menu offers a full take on Aussie pies, along with burgers and hot dogs.

The famous Harry's positioned at Woollomoloo Wharf

I opted for the less-traditional but still famous curry pie (pictured) and had it topped off with spicy chili sauce for an even greater kick. Standing up as all patrons do (unless you can nab a piece of log overlooking the wharf) and cutting into the pie with my plastic fork, I knew I was not to be disappointed. The pie, piping hot, oozed out with deliciously lean beef. The fresh curry powder added a welcome zest and the flaky crust played a perfect bowl and complement to the warm stuffing.

The long lines proved that low prices don’t mean low quality. And for the price – $3.50 – it offers the best value I’ve found in Sydney yet. The requisite celebrity photos that dot the cart, including the likes of Pamela Anderson, Frank Sinatra and most recently Anthony Bourdain, only serve to reassure Harry’s of its landmark status. But the pies, oh the pies, make it clear why a pit stop at Harry’s is a Harbour City “must.”